Spring blooms, and so: Istanbul.

It's starting! I keep my coat unbuttoned, I leave my windows open to breathe fresh air into the house. Sure, sure, nothing about the Greek winter really made me work for it, but it's still here! Springtime! To celebrate the inaugural daffodil blooms around school, six of us took off for a long weekend in Istanbul. About an hour's flight from Athens, and about half as expensive once you're there -- it was incredible. We stayed almost (almost!) in the shadow of the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet, the historic part of Istanbul. Since we had only a few days we didn't venture out of the city, but that'll just be a reason for a return trip. 

The city is beautiful. Manicured gardens, none of the graffiti that colors the cityscape while in Athens -- just beautiful, clean, welcoming. The people, similarly, were some of the friendliest I've met here (in Europe), very willing to help, very eager to start conversations. One man walked with us for fifteen minutes to practice his English. We managed to see the Blue Mosque, the Aghia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, the Basilica Cisterns, the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Bazaar and ASIA in four short days. In addition to all that we managed to drink endless glasses of the sweetest apple tea you can imagine and have our fortunes told by a chicken (with the poetic aid of three rabbits). A chicken picked my fortune from a tray of fortunes for the low, low price of 5 TL. 

"You should give up your previous anger and make friends again with your beloveds. The person who offended you regrets for what he/she has done and is looking for a chance to apologize to you." My chicken-rabbit fortune was the only one that didn't really apply. That said, if it's referring to you: all is forgiven. I can't go against the wisdom of interspecies interaction. 

It's difficult to choose impressions out of a hat when trying to sum up a place in non-novel form, but I'll try (and then I'll attach pictures, because you know... 1,000 words and all that). The Blue Mosque is striking from the park in front of it. We were lucky enough to pass through this area daily, and were perpetually in awe of the booming calls to prayer.

The Blue Mosque, viewed from across the park. 

The Aghia Sophia, across the park (and the original place of worship there) hides it's beauty a bit more, it's outside having deteriorated over the years. But inside: unbelievable. Aside from the fact that these two buildings are some of the most dramatic pieces of architecture I've ever seen, it is remarkable that they're in such a stand-off. The ultimate showdown between Christian and Muslim faiths. Interesting historical note: The Blue Mosque was built with the intention somewhat in mind to outshine the Aghia Sophia, and so it erected six looming spires (to Sophia's four). However, at the time Mecca had six spires, and competition with Mecca would not stand. The solution? A seventh spire for Mecca. 

Inside the Aghia Sophia. Swoon.

Oh! My goodness! I nearly forgot. The Hamam! Stripped to our underwear we were ushered into a gigantic room built in 1584 -- domed roof with light shafts to the outside, centered around of massive, heated marble slam. You lie there until you can't take the heat any longer, then you move over to one of three or four Turkish women who scrub off every flake of dry skin, soap you, shampoo you, and on at least one occasion, burst into song. It was unlike anything I'd ever experienced. In a good way. 

If ever you are in this part of the world, please visit Turkey. Your wanderlust will thank you. 

Magical lighting at the Grand Bazaar.

An album for your perusal.

Long time gone.

All of February without a post? Poor form. But at least it's the shortest month! Sometimes there's just regular life and not much new information to send out into the interweb. February was rainy and cold, every teacher in the department got a flu at one point or another and one hellish week there were five teachers out sick. But things are looking up! This past week was sunny and warm and even the Greeks left their parkas at home. 

And! My parents and Katherine came to visit! It was her spring break, and they all flew over for ten days of sight-seeing and dolmades-eating. It was wonderful having them here, especially getting the chance to become a tourist again. We did so many things! It was exhausting but, of course, I'm glad to be able to check a few things off my list. The first two days were spent on Aegina, which is the closest island and which had just opened for the season. Things pick up on the islands only around Orthodox Easter, so we were the early birds, and were there for clean Monday (marks the end of Carnival and the start of not being allowed to eat red meat 'til Easter). The island was beautiful and quiet and dreamy. As soon as my sister got of the boat she said "This is like no where we've ever been" which says a lot for a travel happy family like the Dobson-Driscolls. Farmers were starting to tidy up their olive orchards and octopi were hanging from lines like drying clothes. 

Temple of Afea on Aegina: Older than the Parthenon.

Octopi hanging outside a restaurant: More delicious than the Parthenon.

Among the other festivities during the week of family: Acropolis, National Archaeological Museum, Monastiraki flea market, Delphi, Plaka, Lycabettus Hill, Folk Art Museum. Too many to go into in much detail, but it was a wonderful week seeing the city from a fresh perspective again. I realize I've only been here for five or six months, but I've settled in to the extent that I don't exactly feel like a tourist any longer. I still often feel like a confused foreigner, but I do feel like I'm living here, not visiting. 

Wise dog sleeps in the shade of a beachside table.

However, in the upcoming months I will be visiting an absurd number of countries I've never been to before. Up next: a long weekend in Istanbul, staying in a hostel directly opposite the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia. Looking forward to the culture shock and Turkish baths. A few weeks later, I'm off for the big whirlwind trip through Denmark, Sweden, France and the Czech Republic. If all goes well, I'll also be able to visit Austria and Hungary before I leave this varied continent. Is Russia the only country that spans two continents? Did you know that Scotland is actually from a different land mass than England? Geography day! 

Thinking about all this upcoming travel is making me crazy! I'm (to a small extent, and probably because my family just left this morning) already starting to get the transition itch. It's what happens when you realize you're going to leave a place or change something drastically. Mostly its symptoms are innocuous: too much time on craigslist looking at apartments, day-dreaming of the settling-in process in a new place. But occasionally it can result in premature mental departure from a place, going against the whole "Be here now" philosophy I've been working on. I feel like that phrase is something Woody Allen would mock, but hey! he married his adopted daughter -- to each their own. 

In conclusion, dear readers, try to be where you are. At least some of the time. 

Where I am. Sunset over Halandri.