Thursday, March 26, 2009

Spring blooms, and so: Istanbul.

It's starting! I keep my coat unbuttoned, I leave my windows open to breathe fresh air into the house. Sure, sure, nothing about the Greek winter really made me work for it, but it's still here! Springtime! To celebrate the inaugural daffodil blooms around school, six of us took off for a long weekend in Istanbul. About an hour's flight from Athens, and about half as expensive once you're there -- it was incredible. We stayed almost (almost!) in the shadow of the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet, the historic part of Istanbul. Since we had only a few days we didn't venture out of the city, but that'll just be a reason for a return trip. 

The city is beautiful. Manicured gardens, none of the graffiti that colors the cityscape while in Athens -- just beautiful, clean, welcoming. The people, similarly, were some of the friendliest I've met here (in Europe), very willing to help, very eager to start conversations. One man walked with us for fifteen minutes to practice his English. We managed to see the Blue Mosque, the Aghia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, the Basilica Cisterns, the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Bazaar and ASIA in four short days. In addition to all that we managed to drink endless glasses of the sweetest apple tea you can imagine and have our fortunes told by a chicken (with the poetic aid of three rabbits). A chicken picked my fortune from a tray of fortunes for the low, low price of 5 TL. 



"You should give up your previous anger and make friends again with your beloveds. The person who offended you regrets for what he/she has done and is looking for a chance to apologize to you." My chicken-rabbit fortune was the only one that didn't really apply. That said, if it's referring to you: all is forgiven. I can't go against the wisdom of interspecies interaction. 

It's difficult to choose impressions out of a hat when trying to sum up a place in non-novel form, but I'll try (and then I'll attach pictures, because you know... 1,000 words and all that). The Blue Mosque is striking from the park in front of it. We were lucky enough to pass through this area daily, and were perpetually in awe of the booming calls to prayer.

The Blue Mosque, viewed from across the park. 

The Aghia Sophia, across the park (and the original place of worship there) hides it's beauty a bit more, it's outside having deteriorated over the years. But inside: unbelievable. Aside from the fact that these two buildings are some of the most dramatic pieces of architecture I've ever seen, it is remarkable that they're in such a stand-off. The ultimate showdown between Christian and Muslim faiths. Interesting historical note: The Blue Mosque was built with the intention somewhat in mind to outshine the Aghia Sophia, and so it erected six looming spires (to Sophia's four). However, at the time Mecca had six spires, and competition with Mecca would not stand. The solution? A seventh spire for Mecca. 


Inside the Aghia Sophia. Swoon.

Oh! My goodness! I nearly forgot. The Hamam! Stripped to our underwear we were ushered into a gigantic room built in 1584 -- domed roof with light shafts to the outside, centered around of massive, heated marble slam. You lie there until you can't take the heat any longer, then you move over to one of three or four Turkish women who scrub off every flake of dry skin, soap you, shampoo you, and on at least one occasion, burst into song. It was unlike anything I'd ever experienced. In a good way. 

If ever you are in this part of the world, please visit Turkey. Your wanderlust will thank you. 


Magical lighting at the Grand Bazaar.

An album for your perusal.

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