Breakfast of Champions.
Let me rewind for a second. I love Paris. I've been here twice before -- once as a twelve-year old visiting a friend who had moved to England (we took a trip to EuroDisney while I was with her), and once at the end of an exchange program after I'd spent a few months living in Brittany. I was here for four days staying with a friend from college, dear Isabelle, for the first two nights (11th arrondisement, near the Marais) and a family friend for the last two night (16th arrondisement, near the Eiffel Tower). It was beautiful. The people were incredibly friendly. And after however many years (3) away from the study of French language, mine held up remarkably well (plus-que-parfait need not apply). By the end of the trip I had resolved to return to Paris to live whenever I next decide to move shop from the U.S. of A. -- not even back yet and already planning my next time away.
Pont Alexander III in front of the Grand Palais
Anyhow, I'll try to cover some of what we did without sounding too list-like. The night I got there Isabelle and I took the metro (efficient! punctual!) to the Eiffel Tower and walked back past Les Invalides which has a nice garden full of soldier-looking shrubbery, the Grande Palais, a stunning building with a lit up glass dome that currently boasts simultaneous Andy Warhol and Dali exhibitions (why didn't I buy tickets ahead of time?). Crossed Alexander the third bridge -- gaudy, gold gilt, views of the Eiffel Tower -- actually, crossing as many bridges as I could was a goal, but I stupidly stopped writing down their names after this one. We continued walking through the Marais, Jewish neighborhood with astounding fallafel by day, gay neighborhood with raucous bars by night, a wonderful combination. Having walked until our feet ached, we settled into Isa's cozy apartment for the night.
Green flowers, white lady, the Tuilleries.
The next day (wine and cheese breakfast day!) was again walk-heavy, strolling along Le Coulee Verte which is garden walkway planted on an out of use raised rail system. Just in time for the first blooms of spring, everything smelled of lilacs, honeysuckle, and rain. From the walkway you have a perfect view of the rooftops of Paris: cue pipe dreams of a quiet life sitting on a tiny balcony reading books in the sun. From here we decided that wine and cheese were insufficient and we went to a small cafe on L'Ile St. Louis called La Charlotte de l'ile where we had chocolate cake and hot chocolate. It was out of the way, somewhere I'd never have found on my own, which is probably the exact reason I loved it.
A railway station converted. Beautiful.
I did manage to go to a few museums, yes. The first was the Picasso which I found disorienting, with mirror paneled walls, labyrinthine corridors and hidden rooms. Although I did love the portraits of Picasso frolicking in his studio, playing with his children, jumping rope. In other words, I much preferred the art to the museum. Not so at the next museum. The main hall of the Musee d'Orsay is without a doubt in my top five favorite rooms on earth -- that clock! Their collection is incredible, so many pieces of art that you recognize, so many more that you don't. When I was there they had a huge exhibit about the various influences of Rodin on the sculpture world. Here, I felt the architecture at least rivaled the art. Next up was L'Orangerie where Monet's water lilies are currently housed in large, oval rooms. It is a very calming experience to be surrounded by blue and green on all sides.
Making a run for it, L'Orangerie.
I could go on forever. Eiffel Tower, Champs Elysees (only the strong survive: Louis Vuitton, Gucci, McDonalds), the Tuilleries (see Minotaur picture below), Notre Dame, Hotel de Ville (in typical French fashion -- full of protestors). Instead of going on and on, I'll post pictures.
One entry away from being caught up!
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